Pre-IFRA colognes is where it's at, like Gucci - Envy.
Houbigant - Fougere Royal (1880's for the original, with multiple remakes, with 2010 the last)
If you must go modern, try Czech & Speake - No. 88.
Of course, you could consider custom-made.
I had a friend make me an essential oils based drop before he wound up that side of his business.